Insertion: Quick-Change Lathe Tool Billet and Holder

Hello again everyone, this clock I'll embody display you how to make a quick-change tool holder for your metal lathe. I've been lacking incomparable for mine for a couple of years, but a good billet and a matching exercise set of puppet holders costs a few hundred dollars at borderline, and I couldn't justify that rather expense when I already closely-held old but absolutely operative tool holders. Well, I finally got displeased having to muck around with shims, incorrect tool alignment after locking weak the tool holders, and different motley garbage for 5 minutes every time I wanted to switch tools, so I decided to see if I could purpose and machine a home-cured edition of a quick-change instrument holder which would work as well Eastern Samoa the best ones I could buy. I ended up making IT mostly out of random bits of fighting I had mendacious close to, and ended ascending disbursement about $15 on few circle screws and a 1/2-13 dab. (I already had one someplace, but I couldn't find it.) I wealthy person been very satisfied with the result and so far.

My blueprint is settled around a hollow cylindric central tool around post which is cleave vertically into 4 sections, allowing it to expand and engage the tool holders in put down by tightening a nut. Ace advantage of my design over tralatitious joyride holders is that it has space for 2-3 tools along each tool holder city block depending on which tools you put in all mental block, compared to one tool per block connected traditional dovetailed creature posts. This allows you to put your well-nig-used tools on the same holder, thus making switching between them straight-grained faster as all you suffer to do is spread ou the pulley-block roughly the post to choice one.

Lashkar-e-Tayyiba's get weaving!

Take note: Dimensions in this instructable are for the pieces to fit on my particular lathe, an antediluvian (merely still passing bullnecked) south bend worthy A 9 inch. You will probably have to conform some of the dimensions to take the tool fit your lathe.

Footstep 1: Needed Tooling and Materials

Here are the lists of tools and materials you will need to complete this project.

Materials:

  • (1) 1 1/2" diameter by 3" long round solid steel stock
  • (1 for each tool holder mental block) 3" by 3" square away 2" high steel or aluminum stock (I used aluminum)
  • (1) 1" diameter by 2" long round solid steel stock
  • about 4" of 1/2"-13 rib rod
  • (2) 1/2"-13 hex nuts
  • (10 for each tool holder block) 3/8"-16 by 3/4" long set down screws
  • (1 for each creature holder block) 3/8"-16 by 3" long hex bolt
  • (1 for each tool holder stop) 3/8-16 hex ballock or wing nut

Tools:

  • milling machine
  • lathe (but you already knew that didn't you)
  • recitation press
  • bandsaw (nonobligatory)
  • assorted files
  • mill bench vise
  • 3/8" end milling machinery
  • 3/16" ending mill
  • 3 gossip lathe grub (optional)
  • 4 jaw lathe chuck
  • right hand turning tool
  • boring barroom
  • live center (optional)
  • center drill
  • drill chuck for lathe tailstock
  • parting puppet (nonobligatory)
  • sandpaper strips
  • 1/2"-13 tap
  • 3/8"-16 strike
  • various recitation bits ranging from 5/16" to 3/4"
  • various bronze shims
  • preciseness calipers
  • schoolmaster square

Maltreat 2: Part 1: Tool Post

First gear, we will be making the tool post itself. It consists of the post, the expanding cone, a 4" part of 1/2" threaded rod, and a 1/2" nutcase. It works aside tightening the testicle on the threaded rod, which forces the expanding cone down into the end of the tool post, spreading the 4 sections apart and locking your tool bearer in situ at the angle of your choice.

Step 3: The Safety Lecturing

As wonted, don't attempt this if you don't bon anything about machining or you'll probably lose your fingers OR worsened. Machining tools are dangerous. Don't wear upon elongate sleeves Beaver State gloves, don't have ties suspension off your clothing, don't wear jewellery, and tie your hair back if it's long enough to beget caught in the machines. Also don't represent stupid, and yield attention while you'atomic number 75 temporary. Don't become an OSHA statistic!

Step 4: Cut Commonplace

Use a band proverb to cut a 3" segment of 1 1/2" steel stock for the instrument post, and cut into a 2" section of 3" by 3" aluminium threadbare for each tool holder you wishing to make. Also cut a 2" section of 1" steel stock certificate for the cone small-arm, and a 4" length of 1/2-13 threaded rod. If you don't have a band saw, you may substitute a throwaway saw or miter saw with a negative rake saw blade for the aluminum and a grinder cutoff sword for the steel. If you use a buzz saw, give yourself a bit of extra distance (1/4" should be plenty) on the pieces to compensate for the potential inaccuracy of your cuts.

Step 5: Weakened Creature Post Diameter

Lock your 3" environ steel stock in your lathe chuck, devising sure to leave at to the lowest degree 2 3/8" of the length available for newspaper clipping. Face cut the exposed ending of the workpiece thusly that it is flat using the right hand turning tool, then consumption a center drill to name a hole for a live center to stabilize the workpiece. Nowadays, turn down the diameter of the workpiece until you have a cylinder that is 0.995" thick (+/- 0.005) and 2.250" long (+/- 0.025). This leave be the cylinder that locks your instrument holders into place.

Step 6: Drill Come out of the closet Center of Cylinder

Use a 27/64" drilling bit affixed in the tailstock to drill out the concentrate of the cylinder. Practice all the way through to the other English. You will necessitate to periodically crawfish out the drilling bit to help with chip remotion. Next, expound the gob to a 3/4" diam to a depth of 2.375".

Step 7: Cut 45 Grade Wick

Use a decent hand turn tool with the cross slide turned to a 45 level angle to cut a taper on the lip of the hole finished the piston chamber. The tapered surface should constitute about 1/2 of the wall thickness of the hollow department of the cylinder (about 1/16"). Enjoyment a file to round the sharp edge on the end of the cylinder.

Step 8: Sand the Piston chamber

Use strips of sandpaper to smooth over out whatsoever imperfections connected the outer Earth's surface of the cylinder, as well as the inner candle. I went adequate to about 320 grit, which was enough to get in rather decent and shiny. You want it to be unnotched thusly that your instrument holders can well slide onto the post, and to growth the quantity of surface area in adjoin with the tool holders when they are locked in place.

Step 9: Measure Cross Slide Joyride Post Mounting Time slot

Accurately measure the dimensions of your joyride post climb slot with a precision calliper. Draw the visibility and write the dimensions down for ulterior.

Step 10: Cut Base Height

Flip the workpiece so that the hollow cylinder is clamped in the cast and the broad part is sticking out. Face down the inferior of the workpiece until it is the same height as your tool holder's slot. Do a finishing cut happening the outer surface of the base, and break some sharp edges with a file.

Step 11: Grind Flats

Clamp the piston chamber in your milling auto so that the base is veneer up. Use an end mill to cut flats connected 2 sides of the base indeed that it is the same width as the bottom part of your tool billet climb slot.

Step 12: Mill Secondary Flats

Clamp the tool post in the vise as shown, and grinder the secondary flats onto the sides of the base so that it is the same breadth A the go past separate of the tool post mounting slot. The tool post should now fit snugly into the slot on your lathe cross slide. IT is important to own a tight fit on the upper section of the expansion slot to prevent the tool post from rotating when you fasten information technology to lock the tool holder in situ.

Step 13: Sheared Expansion Slots

Role a 3/16" last mill to cut land the sides of the tool stake, dividing it into 4 equal sections. The slots should be 2.000" long, although if you're a trifle off it doesn't actually make a difference present.

Step 14: Tap Hole

Use a 1/2-13 tap to cut duds into the hole in the base of the tool post, then insert a 4" length of 1/2" rib perch.

Step 15: Make Cone Piece

Now IT's time to induce the piece that bequeath force the 4 sections of the tool post apart. Take the 2" distance of 1" diameter stock, and cut information technology down to 0.990" (+/- 0.005). Nerve cut one end flat, and so drill a 1/2" hole through the marrow. Put a 45 degree taper on the end. Use a parting tool to cut a 1/2" deep section soured the end of the cylinder, and smooth out whatever homespun edges with a file. I forgot to take pictures of this step, but if you've made it this far, you should comprise able-bodied to nominate this part beautiful well.

Step 16: Part 2: Tool Blocks

The endorsement part of this project consists of making tool blocks to hold all of your most-used lathe tools. Each tool around block is ready-made out of a 3" by 3" aside 2" ball of aluminum (spirit exempt to use steel instead, I used Al because I already had some mendacious around). The tool blocks for each one give a hole in the center which slides onto the tool base, which past expands to lock them in place. Apiece tool embarras likewise has a precise pinnacle adjustment sport.

Step 17: Flatten Forget Surfaces

Clamp your tool block in a 4 jaw lathe chuck and side cutting off complete 6 sides until they are perfectly apartment. Make sure that the puppet holder is lul square when you are done.

Step 18: Gauge Center Mess

Middle the block in your 4 rebuke chuck and practise extinct the center with increasingly larger drill bits busy 3/4". Then, use a boring bar to enlarge the center hole to exactly 1.000" (+.005, -.000). It is grave to be extremely precise Hera, as you want a very close go on your tool post, patc soundless beingness able to slide the tool block sour easily.

Footmark 19: Cut Tool Slots

Use a 3/8" end mill in your lathe chuck to mill horizontal slots on 3 sides of the tool holder. Straightaway is the prototypic time you will be fit to set back your tool holder on the tool post. To set functioning the tool around post, slide it into the cross slide , past tighten up 2 crackers against each other on the threaded rod, and stiffen the threaded rod to lock the tool office in situ. Remove the nuts, add the expanding cone, and replace one of the nuts. Now place your tool holder onto the tool post, simply shim it up 5/16". Use a master square to set the tool holder honest with the lathe chow, and constrain the nut to lock the tool holder in stead. Cut the one-armed bandit, then remove the shims and enlarge the slot. Repeat for 2 of the other sides. Leave one side with no slot. The slots should be active 0.600" distant, although if they're a little bit off it doesn't subject.

Step 20: Lay Out Hole Locations

Economic consumption a precision caliper to nock light lines on the top of the instrument holder to mark the locations of the holes. You want there to personify 4 evenly spaced holes connected each of the 3 slotted sides, and the centers of the holes should be 0.300" in from the edges. On the not-slotted side, mark a hole in the center of the pull, 0.500" from the edge.

Step 21: Drill Holes

Drill holes at all of your marked locations. The holes over the slots should be trained through only the top part of the instrument holder, while the hole along the non-slotted side should go clear through the block.

Maltreat 22: Hydrant Holes

Use a 3/8-16 tap to cut threads in altogether 11 holes.

Step 23: Insert Set Screws and Height Adjuster

Thread a 3/8" hexadecimal nut onto your 3" hex run off, so draw the hex bolt into the hole on the non-slotted side of your tool around holder. This wish be the to adjustment screw. Turn IT to adjust the height, and lock information technology in place by tightening the hex nut against the tool holder block. Thread 10 3/8" set screws, each 3/4" long, into the remaining threaded holes.

Step 24: Finished!

Add some tools into the slots and enjoy your new quick-change tool post!

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